When Surfing, Be Careful

20 Jun


by Mateus

Last weekend I was surfing at a beach where I’ve never surfed before in Florianópolis, called “Morro das pedras”. It is a beautiful place where a corner of the hill enters into the sea making good rights on the left side of the hill and good lefts on the right side of the hill. It can be a little dangerous if you do not pay enough attention.



Because I didn’t know this place very well, I was alone, and mainly because I’m not very experienced surfer, I was a bit afraid to surf here. In addition, it was a rough day, the waves were about 1.2 meters high, and the sea was a little rough. Therefore, I stood for a while staring the sea, looking for the easiest place to enter  and  which places I should avoid so I didn’t run into any troubles, as the rocks are very close.

I saw that the current was pulling towards the rocks. Finally, when I decided to go, I walked far away from the rocks and kept some reference point on the shore to avoid the strong pull from the current. One surfer didn’t pay attention and had the bad luck of facing this dangerous situation. Good thing he got to  the outside and paddled to where he could return to the shore safely.

So, in case you are not a very experienced surfer, I would really recommend that you to try to go with some friends. You should pay attention before entering the sea, be aware of the current, and always try to surf somewhere that has other people surfing too.




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